Greta Dungarees
2020 put a spanner in the works for many small businesses and where we’d have loved to have been in a studio teaching in person, the year had something different in store for us. So, we launched a few online workshops, with the Greta Dungarees being our first.
Over four sessions, you’ll learn how to cut, measure, press, sew and finish your garment.
You can buy the Greta Dungarees pattern as a pdf (so you can print off at home) or paper and we also have kits which include the paper pattern and all the fabric you’d need. Enjoy!
Day 1 // Measure & Cut
In the first session, we’ll be focussing on measuring ourselves and cutting out the pattern. To prepare you will need to have either bought the printed version of the Greta Dungarees Sewing Pattern or printed out the PDF version at home and stuck the A4 pieces of paper together.
I recommend watching the film all the way through once so that you know what is coming and then starting it again and pausing on each step to do it yourselves. I’ve included some of the key information below for those of you who like to read rather than listen! (Subtitles are also available on the film by clicking the icon in the bottom right corner.)
Measuring yourself accurately is the first step towards getting a great fit on the garment. The most important measurement for this pattern is the hips! So grab a tape measure and wrap it round the widest part of your bum, keeping it parallel to the floor.
Once you have that measurement refer to our size chart and see which size you are closest to:
Top tip: Our patterns are drafted for an average height of 5’5” (164cm tall with a 78cm inside leg) If you are shorter or taller than this please use the lengthen and shorten lines on the pattern to adjust the length of the crotch and or the leg.
OK great, once you have decided on your size cut around all of the pattern pieces using the key as your guide. This pattern already has 1.5cm seam allowance included so no need to add on any extra.
Now that we have them all cut out I’ll talk you through each of the pieces so that you can visualise where they will go on the body.
A Main Trouser - This big piece wraps all the way around the leg and runs up the back
B Front Bib - This piece lays across the chest
C Front Pocket/D Back Pocket/E Pocket Facing - These three pieces combine to make the pocket bag which sits on the hips
F Waist Strap - This piece wraps around the middle to do up the dungarees.
G Shoulder Strap - You guessed it, this pieces sits on the shoulder
H Back Facing - This piece gives you a neat finish on the back
Now that you know where all the pieces go it’s time to cut out your fabric.
Place your washed and ironed fabric flat on the table. Fold as per the lay plan, making sure your selvedges are perfectly matched. Lay out all the pattern pieces on the lay plan which are cut on the fold or in pairs. I’ve given you six possible lay plans in the instruction booklet but I would use these only as a guide, depending on the width of fabric and size you are cutting out you might be able to see a way that works better for you.
Once you have checked the grainlines are all parallel to the selvedge it’s time to get going with those scissors.
Cut carefully around the shapes, making sure you mark all the notches and drill holes (I use a bradle (spike) to mark the drill holes). Then unfold the fabric and cut out any remaining pieces that you just need one of. Now pin and cut out front pocket (C) on a separate piece of folded cotton fabric.
Once we are all cut out we can fuse interfacing at the ‘V’ on the main trouser (A). To do this apply a triangular scrap of interfacing on to the wrong side of the fabric using a medium/hot iron, following the manufacturer's guide. You usually need to hold the iron in place for roughly 5-10 seconds. This will reinforce the area around the drill hole and strengthen the bottom of the pocket. There is no template for the interfacing; simply use whatever scraps you have.
Thats it! Congratulations. Everything is cut out and ready to sew.
Day 2 // Pockets & Straps
Yesterday we cut out all our pieces so we should be ready to go. Today we are going to be focussing on the pockets and sewing the straps to make the construction of the dungarees flow in parts 3 and 4.
My main advice with the pockets is to take it really step by step. This construction method will probably be different to any other pocket you have sewn before because I invented it specifically for this pattern.
Top Tip: make sure you mark your notches and drill hole really accurately, as that will make all the difference!
Hopefully seeing me demonstrate the pockets in the film will help give you the confidence you need. I’ve had folk on my workshop who have never sewn anything before, so I know you can do it! Grab a cuppa, turn on some tunes and trust the process!
Day 3 // Press & Sew
Today we will be ploughing on with the construction of the garment. We will be sewing the crotch, shoulder straps, back facing, inside leg and front bib in place.
I love this section of the construction because it’s when it all starts to come together.
Top Tip: Today the iron is your friend. Make sure you get it steaming and use it to its full potential. You may find it useful to have a sleeve board to hand for some sections. Make sure when you press your seams you are pressing the seam really flat as that will help keep your top stitching neat.
Day 4 // Fit & Finish
Almost there! The home straight. Today we will be focussing on fit and finish.
Top Tip: Take your time trying on dungarees and marking the strap placement. Give yourself some time to move around, sit down, do some lunges etc. You want to make sure you can do everything you need to do before you sew those straps in place.
Now is also a good time to check the length on the leg, if you’re petite, you might want to chop some of or do a little turn up. Once you’re happy, go for it, get those last finishing touches done. Before I go, I’ll leave you with a few ideas for customising your next pair:
Lengthen or shorten the legs depending on whether you like to show a bit of ankle.
Add a dungaree clip fastening to the shoulder strap. Great for anyone who is breastfeeding.
Switch up the back lining to a contrast fabric.
Get extra utilitarian: add a front pocket to the bib.
Hack the legs off, add a skirt and turn it into a dungaree dress!
There are so many opportunities to get creative with this pattern. So stay in touch and let me know how it goes. Don’t forget to hashtag #gretadungarees @mademywardrobe on Instagram so that our amazing sewing community can see what you’re making.